Hey folks! I’m back for Day 4 of surfing camp.
Today was back to pretty calm waters with some moderate waves, so we could skim and surf. I decided to skim board for my first segment, and then surf the last two.
I met a really cool counselor upon skim boarding. His name was Samuel, and he helped me learn the pop-shuv—a pretty cool skim boarding trick!
Basically, you ride the surf and jump up, kicking your legs in directions that oppose each other. This turns the board. Then you land back on the board, having turned it 180°.
Here’s a video I found on YouTube showing the trick:
A counselor tried to help me with this yesterday but what Samuel did helped me even more.
He didn’t start me in the water.
“C’mon, let’s build a sand castle,” he said. Slightly confused, I helped him scoop up some sand into a hill. Then we set his board (he let me give his a try) on the mound of sand. I stepped on it and balanced.
He showed me how you kicked each leg and jumped.
The first few tries the board moved very little. But by the end of my attempts, I had managed to turn it the full 180° and land it!
Then we took it to the water, which was an added level of complication because I would be moving forward.
I tried several times but couldn’t quite land it, though I got very close.
Then the head of the camp, Benny, called us in. We ended the segment. On the way back down the beach toward him, I kept practicing the move… and then I got it!
It wasn’t the most beautiful landing, as I ended up waving my arms frantically to keep balanced, but I did land the trick!
For the other two segments, I did surfing. I learned how to really ride the waves, instead of moving the board with my own momentum. I learned to really harness the power of the wave so it carried me pretty much all the way to shore.
Surfing is undeniably fun. There is a feeling of peace to it, and it’s always a joy to let the wave carry you back to the beach.
So that was pretty much my day! I learned a trick and surfed for Day 4.
Coming up: Day 5! The final day!